Bergama, Turkey — What to See Beyond the Pergamon Acropolis

An hour and a half from Izmir, I left behind the beaches and sun loungers and found myself in a small Anatolian town where at every corner there are carpets, ancient stones, and the smell of freshly baked bread. Bergama. Most people come here for Pergamon on the hill, but the town itself deserves a full day of exploration.

Street in Bergama with a view of the acropolis hill — carpet shops, old stone houses and signs to Pergamon — A typical Bergama street — carpets on the facades, stone houses and the acropolis hill on the horizon

About Bergama — A Town That’s More Than Just Pergamon

Bergama is a small city with just over 100,000 inhabitants in Izmir Province. For most tourists, it’s simply a stopping point on the way to the Pergamon Acropolis — one of the major ancient cities of Asia Minor. But if you spend even half a day in Bergama, the town reveals itself in a completely different way.

Here in the city center stands a Roman temple to Egyptian gods, in a covered bazaar dating back to the 14th century they serve ice-cold sherbet made from black mulberries, and in a former Ottoman hammam from the 16th century, there’s now a museum of parchment — the very material that was invented here two thousand years ago. By the way, the English word parchment comes from the Latin pergamenum — “from Pergamon.”

In 2014, this entire “multi-layered cultural landscape” — from ancient ruins to Ottoman quarters — received UNESCO World Heritage status. Not just the acropolis, but the entire city.

Kızıl Avlu — The Red Basilica

The first thing that catches your eye when walking through central Bergama are the massive red brick walls visible everywhere. This is Kızıl Avlu, the Red Basilica (or Red Court, if you translate literally) — one of the largest Roman structures still standing in the ancient Greek world.

Overview of the Red Basilica in Bergama — massive red walls and a round tower in the rays of the sun — Kızıl Avlu in the morning sun. The scale of this building — 60 by 26 meters — is striking even in photographs

The temple was built in the 2nd century AD, most likely by order of Emperor Hadrian. Originally it was a temple to Egyptian gods — Isis, Serapis, and Osiris. The use of red brick on such a large scale was unusual for Asia Minor, but typical for Rome, indicating that the architect was specially brought in from Italy.

Brick wall of the Red Basilica tower — showing complex Roman masonry

The wall of Kızıl Avlu through green tree branches

Two thousand years — and the masonry looks as if it was completed in the last century

The entire complex once occupied 270 by 100 meters — on either side of the main temple stood two round rotunda towers, which have survived nearly intact. One of them now houses the Kurtuluş Mosque.

Round rotunda tower of the Red Basilica in close-up — One of the two rotundas. It now houses a mosque — and this is perhaps the best illustration of the very “layers” of history for which Bergama received UNESCO status

In the 5th century, the temple burned and a Christian basilica was built within its walls — hence the name. Inside the territory, between the walls, scattered fragments of carved stone — column capitals, marble blocks with plant ornaments. Just lying on the ground, under olive trees.

Inner passage of Kızıl Avlu — a visitor examining an information board at the wall — Inside the complex — there are information boards, but the scale is better felt in person

Fragments of ancient stone reliefs at the wall

A carved stone fragment depicting a grapevine on the ground by an olive tree

Ancient fragments lying right on the territory — a grapevine carved in stone two millennia ago

An ancient column capital on the ground in the shade of trees

A marble block with carved acanthus leaf ornament

Capitals and marble blocks — remnants of the temple’s decoration. The intricacy of the carving is impressive

The main wall of Kızıl Avlu with niches and arched openings from inside the courtyard — The main wall from inside — you can see niches where statues of Egyptian gods once stood

The wall of the Red Basilica through pink oleander flowers — Oleander at the walls of Kızıl Avlu — in summer it’s very beautiful here

The tower of Kızıl Avlu through flowering trees — oleander and pines — The rotunda in greenery — Bergama is actually a very green city for this part of Turkey

Round tower of Kızıl Avlu through plane tree branches — The same rotunda from another angle — you can see the domed top

Practical Information — Kızıl Avlu

– Address: İslamsaray Mahallesi, Bergama, Izmir
– GPS: 39.1219, 27.1833
– Status: Under restoration since January 2025. Planned opening — 2026, with a new visitor center and night lighting
– Admission (before closure): €3 for foreign visitors
– UNESCO: Yes, part of the “Pergamon and its Multi-layered Cultural Landscape” site (2014)
– Google Maps: [link](https://maps.app.goo.gl/AMtL1ndL75HHZJjH7)

The Streets of Bergama — Carpets, Stone, and Cats

The city itself is a labyrinth of narrow streets with old stone houses. Many houses are Greek, with characteristic bay windows and wooden shutters. On the ground floors are carpet shops. Carpets are everywhere here: on walls, on balconies, hung along sidewalks like flags.

A passerby walks past a carpet shop — a close-up of bright carpets on a rope — It’s hard to walk past such a place — the colors are incredible

Carpet shop with baskets and pots at the entrance

Old houses with carpets on balconies and wooden shutters

They sell not only carpets here — baskets, ceramics, handmade bags

Entrance to the Selim carpet shop — an old house with a bay window, carpets from floor to roof — Selim’s shop in an old house with a bay window — carpets literally from ground to roof

Stone house with carpets and bags on the facade — Stone masonry, wooden doors and carpets — a typical facade in the old center

Among the residential houses are real architectural gems — 19th-century buildings with arched windows and openwork balconies. Many of them need restoration, but it’s precisely this that creates the atmosphere of undisturbedness you won’t find in popular tourist towns.

Historic building in Bergama with arched windows and balcony — Kozak sign

The same building wider — with a view of the acropolis hill and surrounding houses

A beautiful 19th-century building at the intersection — the sign points to the Kozak plateau. In the background — the acropolis hill

A street towards the acropolis — old stone houses, Akropol sign — The road to the acropolis passes through an old quarter — quiet streets, stone houses, almost no tourists

Pala kebab restaurant and old buildings on a Bergama street — Pala Kebab and surrounding establishments — Bergama’s center lives its ordinary life

Bergama Arastası — A 14th-Century Covered Bazaar

In the heart of the city, literally steps away from Kızıl Avlu, is Bergama Arastası — a covered Ottoman bazaar that has existed since the 14th–15th centuries. Once upon a time, shoemakers, saddlers, tailors, and basket weavers traded here. Now it’s souvenirs and goods for tourists, but the building itself is impressive.

Interior of the Bergama Arastası covered bazaar — wooden beams, arched windows, flags — Bergama Arastası from the inside — wooden ceilings, arched windows, high ceiling. The bazaar is over 600 years old

Another angle of the covered bazaar — wooden ceiling with beams and stained glass windows

Turkish flag in the covered bazaar — arched windows, ceiling beams, lamps

Wooden beams, stained glass windows and well-restored space. It’s cool and quiet during the day

Practical Information — Bergama Arastası

– GPS: 39.12144, 27.17972
– Admission: Free
– Google Maps: [link](https://maps.app.goo.gl/ZuqiEhTr6DrTkBSr8)

The Square by the Bazaar — Cafés, Plane Trees, and That Famous Compote

Next to Arastası is a small square planted with enormous plane trees. Under them are cafés with wooden tables and colorful chairs. This is the most pleasant place in the city to rest.

The square with cafés wider — people at tables, a huge plane tree, colored tables — Local people sit for hours — tea, conversation, no rush

Square with cafés under trees — a bicycle, tables, calm atmosphere — The square by the bazaar — shade from plane trees, a bicycle by a tree and no rush

Café courtyard with lanterns and tables under trees — The square by the bazaar — shade from plane trees, a bicycle by a tree and no rush

And you absolutely must try the local drink. The main drink of Bergama is karadut suyu, a cold sherbet made from black mulberries. It’s served in small glass pitchers, ice-cold, dark red, and sweet-and-sour. The tradition goes back to Ottoman times, when sorbets were the main refreshing drink. In Bergama, it’s still a living tradition, not a museum piece.

A glass pitcher of mulberry compote on a wooden table in a café — The famous karadut suyu — sherbet made from black mulberries. Be sure to try it

Inside a café — jars of spices and tea, a vendor behind the counter — In the café on the square — jars of tea and spices, everything is natural

Art installation of old shoes on a tree trunk — colored tables around — Someone decorated the trunk of a plane tree with old shoes — these small touches create the atmosphere

The square with a mosque minaret at sunset — trees, cafés, sun — A mosque minaret above the square. It’s especially beautiful at sunset

Kardelen Bakery and the Fountain

Along the way between the sites, I noticed the Kardelen bakery — organic bread right in the window, golden loaves looking like they’re from a cookbook. And next to it — an old stone fountain (çeşme), one of those that were installed throughout Turkish cities for travelers.

Kardelen bakery — a window with organic bread, a sign with a sunflower

An old stone fountain on a Bergama street with plaques

Kardelen bakery with organic bread and an old çeşme — such fountains once stood on every corner

Hacı Hekim Hamamı — From Hammam to Parchment Museum

A double-domed stone building next to the bazaar is the Hacı Hekim Hamamı, a hammam built in 1513. For over 200 years it functioned as a public bath, then stood idle for a long time. And in February 2026, it opened as the Parchment Museum (Parşömen Müzesi) — the first and only one in Turkey.

Double-domed Hacı Hekim hammam building — stone walls, orange domes — The two domes of Hacı Hekim Hamamı — from the outside the building looks like a classic Ottoman bath

Entrance to Hacı Hekim Hamamı — an arch, wooden door, plaque with the date 1513 — Above the entrance — the date: 1513. Inside is now an exhibition about parchment and artist workshops

Inside is an exhibition that tells about the parchment-making technology, from soaking the hide in lime to final polishing. The entire process takes about a month and is still done by hand.

Practical Information — Parşömen Müzesi

– Address: Next to Bergama Arastası
– Opening: February 28, 2026
– Inside: Parchment exhibition + artist workshops

The Parchment Workshop — A Word Invented Here

If you see a sign for Bergama Parşömen in the city — go in. This is a workshop where parchment is still made using technology from two thousand years ago.

The story goes like this: In the 2nd century BC, Egypt banned the export of papyrus to prevent the library of Pergamon from surpassing Alexandria’s. Then in Pergamon they developed an alternative — specially treated leather that could be written on from both sides. The material was named pergamenum — “from Pergamon.” This is how a word was born that in English became parchment, in German — Pergament, in French — parchemin.

Bergama Parşömen shop — Pergamon Parchment on the sign, a window with souvenirs — A sign in several languages, including Japanese — parchment from Bergama is known far beyond Turkey

Paintings on parchment in the workshop — ancient subjects, paintings on leather

Inside the workshop — paintings on parchment with ancient subjects. Each work is done by hand

In 2021, parchment from Bergama received the status of a geographical indication (like Champagne or Parmesan). Now the process of including the craft in UNESCO’s list of intangible cultural heritage is underway.

Pergamon — A Separate Story

As for the ancient Pergamon Acropolis on the hill above the city — that’s a separate article. I’ll just say that you can reach it by cable car (teleferik) right from Bergama’s center. The ride takes about 5 minutes, and the views are stunning.

The ancient theater of Pergamon on the hillside and a panorama of Bergama city below

Columns of the Trajaneum — a temple at the top of the Pergamon Acropolis

The theater with a view of the city and the Trajaneum at the peak — it’s worth climbing to the acropolis for this

A Quick Note on the Acropolis

– Admission: €15 for foreign visitors
– Cable car: 500 TL one way (~€13), 800 TL round trip (~€21)
– Hours: 08:00–18:00
– Google Maps: [link](https://maps.app.goo.gl/p1Z7DAA2zmuKmU129)

Getting to Bergama

I drove from Izmir — it’s about 107 km and an hour and a half on the Izmir–Çanakkale highway. The road is good, easy to drive.

If you’re without a car:

Bus from Izmir: Direct buses from the bus station (Otogar), travel time ~1 hour 20 minutes, from $6–8
IZBAN + bus: IZBAN train to Aliağa station, then bus 835 to Bergama (every 30 minutes). Total time — about 2 hours, the most budget-friendly option

Tips

How much time: For the city itself (without the acropolis) 3–4 hours is enough. With the acropolis — a full day
Best time: Morning or sunset hours. Midday in summer it’s very hot
What to try: Karadut suyu (black mulberry sherbet) on the square by the bazaar — it’s a must
What to bring back: Parchment items and handmade carpets
For photographers: The best light is early morning for Kızıl Avlu (east-facing) and sunset hour for the café square

Tip for photographers: Bergama has almost no tourists compared to Ephesus or Pamukkale. This means clean shots without crowds. Come at 9 AM — the city is already awake, but tour groups haven’t arrived yet.

FAQ

How do I get to Bergama from Izmir?

By car — an hour and a half on the highway (107 km). Without a car — by bus from Izmir bus station (~1 hour 20 minutes, from $6) or by IZBAN train to Aliağa and then bus 835.

How much time do I need to see Bergama?

For the city itself without the acropolis — 3–4 hours. If you want to include a trip up Pergamon — a full day. I spent about 5 hours in the city without rushing.

What is karadut suyu and where can I try it?

It’s a cold sherbet made from black mulberries — Bergama’s signature drink from Ottoman times. Served in cafés on the square by Bergama Arastası. Dark red, sweet-and-sour, refreshing.

Is it worth going to Bergama if you’re only planning to see Pergamon?

Yes. The city itself is a separate experience. The Red Basilica, parchment workshop, covered bazaar and streets with old houses are worth arriving early and taking your time.

When will Kızıl Avlu reopen after restoration?

Planned opening — 2026. After restoration, they promise a visitor center, walking routes and night lighting. Check muze.gov.tr for current information.

Can I visit Bergama on my own?

Of course. The city is compact, all attractions are within walking distance of each other. Public transportation from Izmir runs regularly. A rental car gives you more freedom, but it’s not necessary.

What is parchment and why is it connected to Bergama?

Parchment — writing material made from specially treated leather — was developed in ancient Pergamon in the 2nd century BC as a replacement for papyrus. The word parchment itself comes from the Latin pergamenum. In Bergama today, there are still workshops where it’s made by hand.

Bergama doesn’t try to be a tourist showcase. There are no hustlers, pushy guides, or restaurants with pictures of dishes on the entrance. This is a working Anatolian town that simply lives next to two-thousand-year-old history. And that’s precisely why it’s so good.
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